Expedition program in detail:
Schedule of program
Day 1. GROUP MEETING IN OSH. TRANSFER TO THE BASE CAMP (3600 M)
Arrival to Osh. Meeting at the international airport in Osh. Gathering at the guest house. Acquaintance. Buying everything you need, checking and adjusting equipment. Evening walk around the city. Osh is one of the oldest cities in Central Asia. The well-known “Great Silk Road” is passed through Osh.
Day 2. TRANSFER: OSH - BASE CAMP "ACHIK-TASH".
Transfer (about 6 hours) from Osh to the base camp "Achik-Tash", located at an altitude of 3600 m. In the base camp - accommodation in double tents. The dining room is equipped with good dishes, quality food is provided. The saloon has heating and everything you need for relaxation (musical instruments, board games), electricity, shower, toilet, luggage room, internet. The camp is located in a very picturesque place, surrounded by multi-colored slopes, with proudly protruding snow-white and majestic peaks of Petrovsky, the XIX Party Congress and the most important - Lenin Peak! In order not to waste time in vain and get used to the height, the second day we will go for a radial walk to the Lukovaya meadow and climb the Travelers Pass..
Day 3. CLIMBING PETROVSKY PEAK (4700 M)
We continue acclimatization. The third day we will climb to a height of 4700 m, to the snowy peak of Petrovsky Peak. The whole walk takes about 6-7 hours. It's amazing how natural areas change over such short distances. Starting from the alpine meadows, we will pass through the mountain tundra and even the mountain desert, where there is not a single plant or animal. When you go higher, eternal snows begin. Let's practice moving in crampons. And now, after a couple of hours, we are at the top. Snow-white clouds float under us and eagles soar. And all around are the bewitching landscapes of the Pamirs, and our main goal is Lenin Peak. In two weeks, we plan to be on top of it. In the meantime, we have a lunch snack. After a snack with delicious tea from a thermos, we return back to Achik-Tash and have lunch. After lunch at the camp, we are engaged in the selection of products, we receive gas cylinders and a set of products for the entire program, we pack and weigh our cargo for transportation to pack animals to Camp 1 (4400m). In the evening we will conduct classes on the technique of knitting knots, using climbing equipment.
Day 4. TRANSFER TO CAMP 1 (4200 M).
The fifth day we will leave the hospitable Achik-Tash camp and move on to Camp 1, located at an altitude of 4200 m. Our path passes through a clearing of marmots, where these little animals keep tossing under our feet, whistling among themselves, not paying attention to us at all. Then we rise to the Pass of Travelers (4128 m). The crossing takes 6-8 hours. Most of the equipment, expeditionary cargo and products are transported to the first camp on horses, which can be rented in advance at the base camp for an additional fee. Overnight at Camp 1. Accommodation in large double tents with wooden flooring, thermal insulation, foam mattresses. Camp 1 provides free electricity, toilet, luggage storage, and (for a fee) - shower, satellite phone and internet. The dining room is also equipped in the yurt.
Day 5. ACCLIMATIZATION EXIT TO YUKHIN PEAK (5130 M)
Continuation of acclimatization with the ascent to Yukhin Peak (5130 m). Near the camp there is a good peak, about 5000 m. It is perfect for us to gain acclimatization, which is so necessary for a successful ascent to Lenin Peak. Staying overnight at this height at this stage of acclimatization will significantly increase the chances of successfully ascending the main peak.
Day 6. REST DAY AT CAMP 1 (4200 M).
Descent to camp 1. Another day of acclimatization at an altitude of 4200 m. Checking equipment for tomorrow's exit, packing things. Snow and ice activities.
Day 7. TRANSITION TO CAMP 2 WITH EQUIPMENTS (5300 M)
Early exit (1-2 nights) at night to safely overcome the avalanche section of the Lenin Glacier. Movement is carried out in crampons and ligaments. If desired, cars can be used for an additional fee. Travel time - 6-8 hours. In Camps 2 and 3 - accommodation in assault tents for 2-3 people, self-cooking. Overnight at Camp 2.
Day 8. ACCLIMATIZATION EXIT UP TO 5800 M TO CAMP 3 AND OVERNIGHT AT CAMP 3 (6100 M).
Early exit and rise to Camp 3 at an altitude of 6100 m (travel time about 6 hours). Overnight at Camp 3. Hiking will take about 5-8 hours; you need to climb up to 800 m. The trail to the next Camp 3 passes first along the slope of the ridge, then rises to the top of Razdelnaya (6148 m) and goes down a little to the jumper, to a height of 6100 m. Here we will spend a night. Sleeping at an altitude of 6100 m above sea level is not so easy.
Day 9. DESCENT TO CAMP 1 (4200M) AND EARLY EXIT, CLIMBING TO THE TOP OF RAZDELNAYA (6148 M).
To renew our strength and prepare the body for the ascent, we descend to Camp 1. Although we climbed here for several days, the descent will take only 5 hours. In the camp we can have a good rest, swim in a hot shower and have a hearty meal.
Day 10. DESCENT TO THE BASE CAMP (3600 M).
We continue our descent to the Base Camp, where we started our acclimatization program. We return from snows and glaciers to a green flowering meadow. If you wish, we can go for a walk to the picturesque mountain lake or take a steam bath in the camp.
Day 11. REST DAY AT THE BASE CAMP (3600 M).
We use these days as a spare/reserve days, in case for some reason we lose our acclimatization program. If everything goes according to plan, we spend an active day of rest. You can walk around the surroundings of the camp, play volleyball on a specially equipped playground, or come up with some other interesting activities. Around the Achik-Tash valley there are a lot of lakes, small and large. Be sure to take this opportunity to admire such beauties and take a few pictures for memory.
Day 12. REST DAY AT THE BASE CAMP (3600 M).
We use these days as a spare/reserve days, in case for some reason we lose our acclimatization program. If everything goes according to plan, we spend an active day of rest. You can walk around the surroundings of the camp, play volleyball on a specially equipped playground, or come up with some other interesting activities. Around the Achik-Tash valley there are a lot of lakes, small and large. Be sure to take this opportunity to admire such beauties and take a few pictures for memory.
Day 13
Reaching the summit 7134m and returning to camp 3.
Day 14. ASCENT TO CAMP 1 (4200 M)
Acclimatization program is completed. From this day we begin to go only up - to the top of Lenin Peak. Transfer to the already familiar Camp 1.
Day 15. EXIT TO CAMP 2 (5300 M)
We continue to move up, closer to the cherished goal. This time the climb is much easier. It is easier to breathe; it is easier to rearrange the steps. The main thing is not to relax too much and control your body. There are relatively few places for tents on the moraine of the glacier in Camp 2, so we will crowd with other future climbers. I think there will definitely be an opportunity to meet famous and interesting people.
Day 16. TRANSITION TO CAMP 3 (6100 M)
Well, the last jerk before the ascent. We pass to Camp 3 under the top of Razdelny peak.
Day 17. CLIMBING TO THE TOP OF 7134. ASCENT DAY!
This is the most important and most difficult day of the expedition. Rise in crampons, with ice axes, in bundles. By this time, you will be well acclimatized and prepared for a long ascent. From the place of spending the night to the top we are separated by 1000m in height. Get up early, drink tea and a sweet bar. At about 4 a.m. we start climbing. A sharp ascent of 300 meters starts immediately from the camp. Then there is a smooth, but very dangerous transition along a narrow ice-snow ridge. You have to go through it with great care and caution. Soon we will reach the snowy plateau. The summit is already very close, 200 m in height are left to it. And now, having made the last efforts, gathering all our strength, step by step, we rise to the top of Lenin Peak. Congratulations! You have reached an altitude of 7134 m above sea level! We have half an hour to take a breath, look around at the majestic snowy peaks of the Pamirs, and take a photo as a keepsake. After all, not every day we climb the seven-thousanders. We descend along the same route to Camp 3. We spend the night at an altitude of 6100 m. The ascent to the summit takes 10-12 hours, the descent takes about 5 hours.
Day 18. SPARE DAY FOR THE WEATHER
If we were unlucky with the weather previous day, we'll try our luck today. But let's hope we get it right the first time. And we use this day for excursions around the city of Osh. This is a very beautiful and ancient city with many attractions that we definitely recommend you to see.
Day 19. DESCENT TO CAMP 1 (4200M)
We collect our backpacks and go down to Camp 1.
Day 20. DESCENT TO THE BASE CAMP
We descend to the Base Camp. It's sunny, warm and cozy here. Here you will find a festive dinner in the mountains, with traditional Kyrgyz cuisine, a bathhouse, you can celebrate a successful ascent, share experience and impressions with other climbers, and cheer up those who are just going to the top.
Day 21. MOVING TO OSH. HOTEL ACCOMMODATION
We say goodbye to the mountainous Pamir, which endowed us with its beauties and let us reach its peaks. We load into the car and return to the city of Osh. After checking into the hotel, we will have a couple of hours to put ourselves in order, take a shower. And then we'll all go for a walk together, a tour of the evening city.
Attention!
Despite the fact that Lenin Peak is considered one of the easiest seven-thousanders, climbing to the top is a potentially life-threatening undertaking. Any oversight and negligence are fraught with consequences. The main risk factors worth to highlight are staying at high altitude - altitude sickness, low temperatures - frostbite, steep slopes - falling from a great height. For us, your safety is the most important thing, and experienced guides will do everything possible to ensure that you return alive, healthy and on top. They are not liable if any of the risks materialize. Each individual participant, has to understand and realize all possible risks, independently decides on participation in this program of climbing Lenin Peak and is fully responsible for his actions or inaction. The decision on the possibility or impossibility of continuing the ascent is made exclusively by the guides, it is mandatory and is not subject to discussion. We are interested in having as many of our participants climb the mountain as possible, but safety always comes first.
Terms of Service
The tour package includes the following and costs $ 1450 per person:
- Meeting and seeing off at the airport of Osh city;
- Transfer around the city of Osh, airport - hotel - airport;
- Accommodation in a hotel in Osh city 2 nights (double room+ breakfast);
- Transfer Osh - base camp "Achik-Tash" (3600 meters) - Osh;
- Snack on the way to Achik-Tash and back;
- Accommodation on the territory of the base camp in the Achik-Tash glade for an unlimited number of days, within the framework of the program;
- Accommodation on the territory of Camp 1 (4200 m): accommodation in tents with mats and flooring for an unlimited number of days within the program;
The tour price does not include:
- obtaining permission to arrive in the border zone;
- environmental fees of $ 5 (per person);
Achieving the peak
After ascending to the peak, Lenin ascends to everyone, an appropriate certificate is required that Lenin peak is organized and a gala dinner is organized before leaving home. Our team is trying to do everything possible for your stay in BL.
Histories and facts
The peak was first discovered and described in 1871 by the outstanding Russian geographer and traveler Aleksey Pavlovich Fedchenko, who named it after Konstantin Petrovich Kaufman. In 1928, the peak was renamed the peak of Lenin.
The first ascent to the peak was made by German climbers Karl Wien (de: Karl Wien), Eugene Alwein (de: Eugene Allwein) and Erwin Schneider (de: Erwin Schneider (Bergsteiger)) in 1928. At the moment, there are more than 16 climbing routes to the top. Nine on the southern slope and seven on the north, but the route on the north side through the peak of Razdelnaya is considered to be classical.
On July 27, 1968, for the first time in the history of world parachuting, one of the highest peaks of the Pamirs, Lenin Peak (7134 meters), was thrown by the landing of Soviet paratroopers. 46 people took part in the jump: 36 conscripts and 10 aces parachutists. The unique action took place at the intersection of scientific and technical discoveries, took place under the strict guidance of the military and promised to become a world sensation.